I just posted an article on growing chamomile, primarily for making tea. Chamomile also has attractive blossoms.
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Growing Chamomile
Friday, July 23rd, 2010Growing Asparagus in the Midwest
Saturday, June 13th, 2009
Asparagus was first cultivated about 2500 years ago in Greece. Asparagus is a Greek word, meaning stalk or shoot. The Greeks believed asparagus was a herbal medicine which, among other things, would cure toothaches and prevent bee stings.
Second century Physician, Galen, described asparagus as “cleansing and healing”. Claims for medicinal benefits of asparagus persist to this day. The Romans became great lovers of asparagus, and grew it in high-walled courtyards. In their conquests, they spread it to the Gauls, Germans, Britains and from there, the rest of the world.
The asparagus plant is a member of the lily family, which also includes onions, leeks and garlic.
Asparagus is a hardy perennial. It is the only common vegetable that grows wild along roadsides and railroad tracks over a large part of the country. Although establishing a good asparagus bed requires considerable work, your efforts will be rewarded. A well-planned bed can last from 20 to 30 years. For this reason, asparagus should be planted at the side or end of the garden, where it will not be disturbed by normal garden cultivation. Asparagus is one of the first vegetables ready to harvest in the spring.
Calendar
- Harvest early Spring through June.
- After harvest, fertilize with 12-12-12 at 2 pounds per 100 square feet.
- Snap off all remaining spears.
- In the fall after the first freeze, trim the fern a few inches from the ground.
Recommended Varieties
The list of commonly available varieties has significantly changed in recent years. Standard varieties include:
- Mary Washington
- Martha Washington
- Waltham Washington
They are still being offered; but a number of new varieties that are either predominantly or all male recently have been introduced in to common usage. Asparagus plants are naturally either male or female. The female plants bear seeds, which take considerable energy from the plant and sprout new seedlings, which cause overcrowding in the bed. Male plants produce thicker, larger spears because they put no energy into seeds and have no weedy seedling problem. A line that produces only male plants was discovered and has been incorporated into some truly amazing varieties.
- Jersey Giant
- Jersey Knight
- Jersey Prince
- Syn 53
- Syn 4-362
- UC 157
- Viking KBC
These are new hybrids with larger yields. It is advisable to plant the best variety available, as an asparagus bed should remain productive for at least 15 to 20 years. If you are starting a new bed, you may never get to choose a variety again if your bed produces that long. All the newer varieties are cold tolerant and are resistant to rust and fusarium.
Select the new all-male hybrid asparagus varieties such as Jersey Giant, Jersey Prince, and Jersey Knight. These varieties produce spears only on male plants. Seeds produced on female plants fall to the ground and become a seedling weed problem in the garden. Female plants also have to expend more energy to produce the seeds that decreases the yields of asparagus spears on female plants. The all-male hybrids out-yield the old Mary Washington varieties by 3 to 1.
The Fern
The asparagus fern is the key to growth. It is the conduit to the crown and provides nutrients to the roots for next year’s crops. It should not be trimmed until the first frost.
Soil requirements
Asparagus grows in most any soil as long as it has good internal drainage. Asparagus roots do not like waterlogged soils which will lead to root rot. It prefers a soil pH of 6.5-7.5., and will not do well if the pH is less than 6.0. Have the soil tested to determine phosphorus and potassium needs; or add 20 lbs of a 10-20-10 or similar analysis fertilizer per 1,000 square feet, tilled to a 6 inch depth before planting.
When to Plant
Asparagus should be planted as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. One-year-old crowns or plants are preferred. Seeds are sown in a production bed and allowed to grow for a year. However, caring for the small seedlings until they become established can be time consuming. Also, because the seeds are spaced a few inches apart, the crowns will have to be dug and transplanted to their permanent, wider-spaced location in the garden after one year. The young plants have compact buds in the center (crown), with numerous dangling, pencil-sized roots. Adventurous gardeners can start their own plants from seed. Although this adds a year to the process of establishing the bed, it does ensure fresh plants and the widest possible variety selection.
Buy one-year-old, healthy, disease-free crowns from a reputable crown grower. A crown is the root system of a one-year-old asparagus plant that is grown from seed. Each crown can produce 1/2 lb. of spears per year when fully established.
Asparagus can be planted from mid-April to late May after the soil has warmed up to about 50 degrees F. There is no advantage to planting the crowns in cold, wet soils. They will not grow until the soil warms and there is danger of the plants being more susceptible to Fusarium crown rot if crowns are exposed to cold, wet soils over a prolonged period. Plant the asparagus at either the west or north side of the garden so that it will not shade the other vegetables and will not be injured when the rest of the garden is tilled.
Spacing & Depth
Place the plants in a trench 12 to 18 inches wide and a full six inches deep. The crowns should be spaced 1 foot apart. Spread the roots out uniformly, with the crown bud side up, in an upright, centered position, slightly higher than the roots. Apply about 1 lb. of 0-46-0 (triple superphosphate) or 2 lbs. of 0-20-0 (superphosphate) fertilizer per 50 feet of row in the bottom of the furrow before planting. This will make phosphorus immediately available to the crowns. Omitting this procedure will result in decreased yields and the spear production will not be as vigorous. If more than one row is planted, space the rows five feet apart from center to center. Wide between-row spacing is necessary because the vigorously growing fern will fill in the space quickly. Wide spacing also promotes rapid drying of the fern to help prevent the onset of fungus diseases.
Cover the crown with two inches of soil. Gradually fill the remaining portion of the trench during the first summer as the plants grow taller. Asparagus has a tendency to “rise” as the plants mature, the crowns gradually growing closer to the soil surface. Many gardeners apply an additional 1 to 2 inches of soil from between the rows in later years. However, do not compact the soil over the newly filled furrow or the emergence of the asparagus will be severely reduced. Spears should emerge within one week in moist soils.
Do not harvest the asparagus during the planting year. Spears will be produced from expanded buds on the crown. As the spears elongate and reach a height of about 8 to 9 inches, the tips will open. The spear will become woody to support the small branchlets that become ferns. The ferns produce food for the plant and then move it down to the crown for next year’s spear production.
Asparagus is very drought tolerant and can usually grow without supplemental watering because it seeks moisture deep in the soil. However, if rainfall is insufficient when planting or afterwards, it is beneficial to irrigate the crowns. Otherwise the plants will become stressed and vigorous growth will be impeded.
Care
As asparagus plants grow, they produce a mat of roots that spreads horizontally rather than vertically. In the first year, the top growth is spindly. As the plants become older, the stems become larger in diameter.
As noted, asparagus plants are dioecious (either solely male or solely female). The female plants develop more spears or stems than the male plants, but the stems are smaller in diameter. With normal open-pollinated varieties, gardeners plant both male and female plants in an approximate ration of 1:1. After the first year, small red berries form on the female plants in late summer. These then fall to the ground, sprouting plants that essentially become perennial weeds in the asparagus bed.
Because asparagus remain in place for years, advance soil preparation helps future production greatly. Working green manure crops, compost, manure, or other organic materials into the proposed bed well in advance of planting is a good approach. Asparagus should be fertilized in the same way as the rest of the garden the first 3 years. In the spring, apply 10-10-10, 12-12-12 or 15-15-15 fertilizer at the rate of 20 to 25 pounds per 1,000 square feet of area or 2 pounds per 100 square feet and incorporate with soil tillage. Starting in the fourth year, apply the same amount of fertilizer but delay application until June or July (immediately after the final harvest). This approach encourages vigorous growth of the “fern,” which produces and stores nutrients in the roots for next year’s production season.
Weed Control
Weeds and grasses are the worst problems with asparagus. They compete with the developing spears, make an unsightly area in the garden and significantly decrease yield and quality. Start frequent, light, shallow cultivation early in the spring in both young plantings and mature patches that are being harvested.
Weed control can be accomplished by hand hoeing and cultivating during the planting year since there are no herbicides labeled for use in asparagus during the first year. Labeled pre-emergence herbicides may be used during the second spring, by applying it over the shredded fern, about three weeks before spear emergence . Do not use salt as a weed killer. It will not harm the asparagus, but it inhibits water penetration in the soil. Also, rains can leach the salt out of the asparagus bed and into the rest of the garden, injuring other vegetables that are less salt tolerant than asparagus.
Harvesting
Asparagus can be harvested the third year after planting crowns, but for no more than one month the first season. The plant is still expanding its root storage system and excessive removal of spears weakens the plants. During the fourth year and thereafter, the spears may be harvested from their first appearance in the spring through May or June (as long as 8 to 10 weeks).
Harvest spears 5 to 8 inches in length by cutting or snapping. To cut a spear, run a knife into the soil at the base of the spear and carefully sever it. Because the spear is cut below the point where fiber develops, it becomes necessary to remove the fibrous base from the tender stalk. Cutting may damage some spear tips that have not yet emerged from the ground. To snap a spear, grasp it near the base and bend it toward the ground. The spear breaks at the lowest point where it is free of fiber. There is no need to cut asparagus below the soil with a knife. This may injure other buds on the crown that will send up new spears. The small stub that is left in the soil after snapping, dries up and disintegrates. A new spear does not come up at the same spot, but comes up from another bud that enlarges on another part of the crown.
Either method is acceptable. Cutting is often preferred by commercial growers and snapping by home gardeners. Asparagus deteriorates rapidly after harvest. If it is not eaten immediately, it should be processed or refrigerated.
As the tips of the spears start to loosen (known as “ferning out”), fiber begins to develop at the base of the spears, causing them to become tough. The diameter of the spear has no bearing on its toughness. When harvesting, the asparagus patch should be picked clean, never allowing any spears to fern out, as this gives asparagus beetles an excellent site to lay their eggs.
The year after planting, asparagus can be harvested several times throughout a three-week period, depending on air temperatures. Research shows there is no need to wait two years after planting before harvesting. In fact, harvesting the year after planting will stimulate more bud production on the crown and provide greater yields in future years, as compared with waiting two years before harvesting.
Asparagus spears will start to emerge when the soil temperature reaches 50 degrees F. After this, growth of asparagus is dependent on air temperature. Early in the season, 7 to 9 inch spears might be harvested every 2 to 4 days. As air temperatures increase, harvesting frequencies will increase to once or twice per day, harvesting 5 to 7 inch spears before the tips start to fern out and lose quality. The second year after planting, the length of harvest can increase to about 4 to 6 weeks. The third year after planting and thereafter, harvesting can continue for 6 to 8 weeks. Since the length of harvest season will vary from year-to-year depending on air temperature, stop the harvest when the diameter of 3/4 of the spears becomes small (less then 3/8 inch). Experience gained by growing the crop will make it easier for the gardener to know when to discontinue the harvest.
After Harvest
When harvest is finished, snap all the spears off at ground level. New spears will then emerge, fern out, and provide a large canopy to cover the space between the rows. Once a dense fern canopy is formed, weed growth will be shaded out.
Following freezing weather in the fall, the asparagus tops should be removed to decrease the chances of rust disease overwintering on the foliage.
Common Problems
Asparagus beetles are commonly found in home plantings. If numerous, they may be controlled by a suggested insecticide or by handpicking.
Asparagus rust can be a problem in the Midwest. Moisture left on the plant for 10 hours can help to spread the disease. Plant resistant varieties.
Inspect the ferns throughout the season for insect feeding and fern dieback. Asparagus beetles chew on the fern, causing the stem to turn brown and reducing the yield the next year. Spray the ferns with an approved insecticide when beetles are seen. For disease prevention, spray with an approved fungicide on a 7 to 14 day schedule beginning when the ferns reach a 3 to 4 foot height and continuing until mid September.
Do not cut down the fern growth at the end of the growing season. The all-male hybrids stay green until frost, enabling photosynthesis to occur longer throughout the season. Leave the dead fern growth intact over the winter. This catches snow for additional soil moisture and keeps the soil temperature about 5 degrees F cooler than bare soil with no covering of dead fern. The cooler soil temperature is helpful in delaying the early emergence of asparagus in the spring, when air temperatures might rise prematurely and then fall again, predisposing the spears to frost damage. Frost-damaged spears should be snapped and discarded.
Remove the old fern growth by cutting or mowing as low as possible during the first week of April. Dead stalks are very sharp and can easily skin knuckles when harvesting new spears.
Questions & Answers
Q. What causes my asparagus spears to have loose heads?
A. When the weather turns hot, the growing point expands rapidly and the bracts (modified green leaves) are spread by the early development of the stems and ferns. The asparagus is safe to eat because only the appearance is affected.
Q. Early spring freezes caused the asparagus spears in my garden to turn brown and wither. Are they safe to eat?
A. Frozen tips should be picked and thrown away. These spears, although not poisonous, are off-flavor.
Q. Can I start asparagus from seed?
A. Yes. You can grow your own plants by planting seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in the row. Start the seeds in the spring when the soil temperatures have reached 60°F. Dig the plants the following spring, before growth begins and transplant them to the permanent bed as soon as the garden can be worked. Growing your own plants delays establishment of your bed an additional year, but it ensures that you are starting with freshly dug crowns that have not lost vigor by being dug, stored and shipped. Also, variety selection is usually much greater when shopping for seeds rather than crowns.
Q. What causes crooked spears?
A. Asparagus spears grow quickly and are sensitive to mechanical injury from cultivation or cutting tools, insects or wind-blown soil particles. Injured areas grow slowly so that the rapid growth on the opposite side causes spears to curve toward the injured side. The cause of flattened (faciated) spears is unknown.
Selection & Storage
Asparagus is spring’s most luxurious vegetable. It was once cultivated for medicinal purposes as a natural remedy for blood cleansing and diuretic properties. During the Renaissance, asparagus was also promoted as an aphrodisiac and banned from the tables of most nunneries.
Botanically, asparagus is a member of the lily family, closely related to onions and leeks, though it bears no resemblance to them in appearance or flavor. It is a finicky plant, harvested by hand and requiring much attention during the brief growing season. Left to mature it will sprout into beautiful feathery ferns that are often used in floral arrangements.
While Europeans prize white asparagus, Americans tend to prefer the green or violet-green varieties. When buying asparagus look for compact tips and smooth green stems that are uniform in color down the length of the stem. Check the cut stem end for any signs of drying and always avoid withered spears.
Pencil thin or thick stems can be equally delicious. Contrary to popular belief, thinner stems are not an indication of tenderness. Thick stems are already thick when they poke their heads out of the soil and thin stems do not get thicker with age. Tenderness is related to maturity and freshness.
Asparagus comes in a variety of colors including white, violet-green, pink and purple. If you must store any variety of asparagus, treat it as you would treat a cut flower. Trim the stems and stand them in a glass with one to two inches of water. Cover with a plastic bag and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or until ready to use.
Nutritional Value & Health Benefits
Asparagus is low in calories and provides substantial amounts of two antioxidants—vitamin A and C. It truly shines as a source of folate and has a goodly amount of fiber.
Asparagus is very perishable and should be harvested in the morning when air temperatures are cool. After picking, immerse the spears in ice-cold water to remove the heat; then drain the water and place the spears in plastic bags. Store in the refrigerator at 38 to 40 degrees F. Asparagus will keep for 1 to 2 weeks with little loss of quality.
Nutrition Facts
(Serving size, 1/2 cup cooked)
Calories 90
Protein 2 grams
Carbohydrates 4 grams
Dietary Fiber 1.5 grams
Potassium 144 mg
Vitamin C 10 mg
Folate 131 mcg
Vitamin A 485 IU
Preparation & Serving
Cook asparagus as soon as possible to ensure peak flavor. Spears start to lose flavor and moisture as soon as they are harvested. For this reason, imported asparagus, while still good, tends to lack flavor, making home grown Michigan and Illinois spring crops most desirable.
To prepare, wash under cool running water and trim an inch from the stem end. Use a vegetable peeler to peel an inch or two off the bottom end, if desired. The peelings can be added to the cooking water which, can be refrigerated and reused. The water becomes quite flavorful and is excellent in stock and soup.
Peeling asparagus can be tedious and many cooks prefer breaking the tough ends. To use this method, hold the top half of an asparagus spear in one hand and the bottom half between the thumb and forefinger of the other hand. Bend each spear until it snaps in two pieces. The spears will naturally break where the tender part meets the tough end. Although this method produces a lot of waste, the tougher bottoms can be saved for soup or stock, if desired.
Asparagus can be eaten raw, steamed, boiled, grilled, roasted or incorporated into casseroles and salads. Tall narrow asparagus kettles are designed to cook the spears upright, immersing the stems while the tender heads steam. It is not necessary to purchase an asparagus kettle in order to cook asparagus properly. The key to perfectly cooked asparagus is “cook it briefly.”
The flavor of asparagus marries well with many ingredients and it is equally delicious dressed simply with olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Raw asparagus is also tasty served as crudités with a flavorful dipping sauce. When using asparagus as a salad, always wait until serving time to add the dressing as the high acid content of most dressings will turn the spears yellow. Add fresh chives, savory, thyme, and tarragon to enhance the flavor of cooked asparagus.
Home Preservation
The best home preservation method to use for asparagus is freezing.
1. Select young tender spears. Wash thoroughly and sort into like sizes.
2. Trim ends and peel or use the “break method” described above. Cut spears into even lengths to fit freezer bags or freezer containers.
3. Water blanch small spears 2 minutes, medium spears 3 minutes and large spears 4 minutes.
4. Remove from blanching water and immediately immerse in ice water for 5 minutes to cool. Drain slightly.
5. Package, leaving no headspace, seal, label, date and freeze at zero degrees or below for up to one year.
Starting Seeds Indoors
Saturday, March 14th, 2009In the Midwest the growing season is too short. Cool spring soil temperatures and cold weather can prevent seeds from germinating or kill young seedlings. If you wait until the weather warms, the plants get off to a late start only to be zapped by fall’s first frost; they don’t get a chance to bear a full crop or to put on a full floral display.
The home gardener can:
* Buy all of your vegetables and flowers as plant starts, once the weather warms.
* Extend the growing season outside with coldframes and rowcovers.
* Start your own seeds inside while the wintry weather lingers.
The first choice is best for beginning gardeners who are working on a small scale. The second option is for committed gardeners who want to test the limits. Starting from seed, however, is easy, is cheaper per plant and allows a
greater variety of choice among both ornamentals and crops than buying nursery plants.
Supplies
- seeds
- plastic tray (for seeds)
- seed soil
- seed starting greenhouse
- 4 inch pots
- gallon pots (for tomatoes)
- plastic spoon (for scooping out seedlings from bio dome)
Check out the supply links at the bottom of the page.
Clean your Equipment
The pots that will hold small plants, old seed trays, and flats need to be cleaned and disinfected. Scrape off old soil then clean with 1 part chlorine bleach to 10 parts water. This will kill microorganisms that are toxic to your
seedlings.
When should I start my seeds?
In order to decide when to sow your seeds, you need to find the average last frost date for your region. In central Illinois the average last frost dates range from April 14 to April 21 based on the last 25 years. Based on my own experience, I now use May 15th. A few years ago I planted May 1 but had a frost the next few days though it was not forecasted. Dad says he has always used May 15th with success…your tomatoes can wait. I agree.
I start my tomato plants six or seven weeks before this date. Slow-to-germinate flowers get an eight-week head start. Squashes and cucumbers don’t transplant especially well, but I germinate them inside to protect them from marauding slugs. I move them outside two weeks later before they’ve developed much of a root system.
What should I plant indoors?
To determine what to plant indoors, read your seed packets. Many will list instructions for both inside and outdoor seed sowing. Knowing which to do will depend on your climate. With flowers, I often do both. I’ll start a limited number indoors for “insurance” and then sow the remainder of the packet directly in the garden once true Spring arrives.
Some crops should not be started indoors because they don’t transplant well or because they need an impractical amount of room. I would not recommend starting the following inside:
Not Recommended
- beets
- carrots
- cabbage
- chard
- lettuce
- onions
- potatoes
- radishes
- spinach
- turnips
These cool season plants can withstand planting directly outside even before the weather fully warms. Likewise, things you are going to plant in large numbers should wait until they can be sown into the garden soil. The following
are usually grown in sizable quantities:
Plant Directly into Garden
- beans
- corn
- peas
- potatoes
If you are worried about your short growing season for crops like corn, look for varieties that have a short days-to-maturity period.
Recommended
- tomatoes
- peppers
- broccoli
- eggplant
- cauliflower
- melons
- squash
- herbs
- flowers
How do I start plants from seed?
The two most important factors for seed germination are temperature and humidity. The seed contains all the nutrients the plant needs to germinate, so it doesn’t need fertilizer or fertile soil.
Note: Fertilizer may actually prevent some seeds from sprouting. Generally, I avoid fertilizing until plants have grown their first set of “true leaves”, which look different than the first pair that emerges.
To start my seeds, I seed starting systems which contain little containers for each plant. The Hydrofarm germination station has a temperature-controlled pad to keep the seeds environment constant. The 6 pack seed containers are nice, too.
Seeds sprout best in a light soil; don’t use potting soil or garden dirt at this first stage! You can buy seed starting
mix or make your own from peat moss, sand, and compost.
Note: Take care if using vermiculite; it can be a respiratory hazard. I prefer the little soil-less planting plugs because they’re mess free and they pop out easily for transplanting, doing minimal damage to the roots, but other
methods work fine too.
Any device that keeps the environment moist and fairly warm will work. You can cover trays of soil with saran wrap or a dry-cleaning bag — poke plastic forks into the soil to hold the plastic layer up off the growing sprouts. Commercial peat pots, yogurt cups or milk cartons (poke drainage holes in the bottoms) all work fine, too.
Set your pots in a tray, tub or rimmed cookie sheet so you can water from the bottom, letting the moisture soak up through the soil. This helps keep the moisture level constant and prevents dislodging seeds with a fountain of water. Do not let the soil dry out! Little tiny seedling rootlets need constant moisture.
Seeds vary widely in size. I like to use tweezers to place them exactly where I want them. In general, seeds should be planted approximately four times deeper than their diameter. Some seeds need light to germinate and should be scattered just on the surface of the soil. Again, read those packets!
I usually put two seeds into each hole. I use three if I think the germination rate will be low. You can test your germination rate by placing ten seeds between layers of moist paper towels in putting them in a ziploc bag in a warm
place. This is a good idea if you have saved the seeds yourself or they are several years old. Do this 2-3 weeks before you want to actually start your seeds.
Taking notes
As you’re planting, take good notes! Make a planting diagram and jot down how many days it takes each type of seed to
germinate. Some germination times are given as huge ranges (5-20 days). The happier the seed is (warm and wet), the
speedier germination may be.
If you are using individual pots, mark them with labels or masking tape, unless you know for sure that you will
recognize what the leaves of your young plants will look like. There’s nothing worse than getting your plants mixed up.
This is especially important if you are starting different varieties of the same crop! Free plant stakes can be made
simply by cutting up a plastic yogurt tub. Store your leftover seeds in a ziploc bag or glass jar in the refrigerator.
Now that the seeds are snug in their beds, cover them to retain moisture and put them in a warm place. A temperature of
70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius) is ideal, but in March our house is nowhere near 70 degrees! I like to set my
mini-greenhouse on a heating pad (a wet/dry safe heating pad set on low) to maintain a more constant temperature, since
our thermostat drops to 54 degrees (12 Celsius) at night. Some people recommend putting the seed tray on top of the
refrigerator. If your house is more temperate, the heat source is unnecessary. I have often started seeds without a heat
source, but peppers and eggplants seem especially fussy about the temperature.
What happens after the seeds sprout?
Once the seeds have germinated (keep them moist!), they’ll need light, nutrients and air. Give them some ventilation
and move them to a very sunny window, supplemented with artificial light. There is no need to buy an expensive grow
light or full spectrum light. For these purposes, a basic 48″ fluorescent shop light is all you need.
Tip: The type I own has two tubular bulbs per light; they’re available at home improvement stores for less than $20. The
critical thing is to hang them in such a way that they can be raised as the plants grow; I use a link-type chain that
can be doubled-up on itself to different lengths.
As your plants grow, keep the light about 6″ from their tops. If the light is too far away, the plants will grow spindly
as they stretch for it. This can be rather tricky if you are starting different types of seeds at the same time, because
they will grow at varied rates. You can lift the shorter ones with shoeboxes or phonebooks to alleviate this difficulty.
Once all the seeds in your tray have germinated, remove the cover completely. Too much humidity at this stage can
encourage mildew and harm the seedlings.
As you water, fertilize with a weak solution of water-soluble all-purpose fertilizer. I make mine about one-quarter the
strength called for. Watch out for crystallized salts forming on your soil surface — that’s a sign you’re
over-fertilizing and need to cut back. Turn the lights off for your plants at night (they need a dark cycle to grow
properly) but leave the heat on (temperature fluctuations can stunt them).
Time to Transplant to a Pot
When the seedlings first sprout, they will usually have a pair of first leaves that look nothing like the true leaves
that come later. (Many crops are dicots, but not all.) Watch closely, and soon after they have two sets of true leaves,
it’s time to move the teenage seedlings into their first real apartment. Water your seedlings thoroughly an hour or two
ahead of time, and then, working carefully and quickly, remove each seedling into its own pot.
At this point I generally use an all-purpose potting soil. Scooping them up from below, try your best to get all their
little roots, and handle their tops as little as possible, and always by the leaves, rather than the stem. A damaged
leaf can be replaced; a damaged stem often dooms a plant at this stage. A plastic spoon works well for scooping out plants.
Do not pull a plant by the stem.
Depending on how long your plants will be living inside, you may perform only one transplant, or you may need two. For
my tomatoes, I’ll move them into 4-inch plastic nursery pots first, then into gallon-sized pots before they go outside.
Everything else gets one transplant, then into the garden.
Hardening Plants
Once your seedlings are thriving, it’s tempting to treat them a bit too carelessly. Being started inside in a safe
environment, they can’t stand the shock of an immediate change in their conditions. Expose them gradually to the
out-of-doors by setting them outside on nice days for a few hours, being sure to bring them inside at night and making
sure they don’t get sunburned or blown over. Some gardeners like to have a fan blow on their indoor starts, saying it
strengthens the stems to withstand windy outdoor conditions. I can’t vouch for that, but I do think it helps prevent
mildew.
After Planting
After the plants are in the garden they are fodder for rabbits and other animals. Flowers I do not do this. I protect
them until they are two feet tall or so, past the stage of nibbling, with cut out 1 gallon milk jugs. The bottom
of the jug is cut off, creating a plastic greenhouse, then put into the ground around the plant.
Make your own Seed Soil
Method 1
A good germinating medium is fine textured and free of pests, diseases and weed seeds. It should be low in fertility
and soluble salts and capable of holding and moving moisture.
But beware: Soil straight from your backyard just won’t do the job, says Barb Fick, home horticulturist with the
Oregon State University Extension Service.
Typical backyard soil is too compacted and full of weed seeds. Native soil may not drain as well as potting mixes,
and it can develop a crust that prevents seedlings from pushing though the surface. And it is not pasteurized, which can
cause diseases in seedlings.
Fick’s recipe for a good basic pasteurized soil for starting seedlings is a mixture of 1/3 pasteurized soil or
finished compost, 1/3 sand or perlite and 1/3 peat moss.
You can use your oven to pasteurize a small quantity of seedling soil. Put slightly moist garden soil or compost in a
heat-resistant pan and cover with a lid or foil. Place in a 250-degree oven with a food thermometer, to ensure that the
mix reaches a temperature of 180 degrees for a full half-hour. Avoid overheating it, as the structure of the soil may be
damaged.
Sand, peat moss and perlite are available at most nurseries and garden stores, and a mixture of 1/2 peat moss and 1/2
perlite or sand works well, too, according to Fick.
Supply Sources
Growing Green Beans in the Midwest
Tuesday, July 15th, 2008
Green beans, aka snap beans or string beans, are pretty easy to grow in the Midwest. They are a very popular warm season vegetable.
Types
There are two groups of beans: bush and pole. Bush beans grow as a bush and require no support while pole beans need a framework to hold them up. We have had great luck with Blue Lake 274 bush beans. They take 58 days to harvest and are plump with good yield. Also, they are bean mosaic resistant.
A good pole bean is Blue Lake which takes 65 days to harvest and are stringless.
Planting
Plant after the last frost (May 15th in Peoria area) has subsided. We have always grown beans from a seed which you can get in packets from a nearby supply store. Space out planting 2 weeks so a plentiful supply is available through August. Do not plant beans in the same spot as last year since disease and/or pests may have wintered over. It is best to get new bean seeds every year.
Depth
Beans are planted at a depth of 1 inch. Bush beans are spaced out 4 inches between beans and 18 to 24 inches between rows. Pole beans are planted 6 inches apart in rows of 30 inches. Water after planting. Do not soak beans in water before planting as they tend to crack.
Care
Beans have a shallow root system so cultivating nearby with a hoe can damage them. We recommend hand-picking weeds within 1 foot of the plant after a rain if possible. We have had good luck mulching bean plants as it keeps the ground at a more stable temperature and holds moisture in.
Fertilizer
Since beans are legumes, they require no additional nitrogen. A 0-10-10 fertilizer will work well but can be hard to find.
Harvest
Pick beans after they are thoroughly dried (i.e. do not pick in the morning). The beans should be plump and long. Bean plants are brittle and easy to break so be careful. You can use a small scissors and snip the bean off or carefully yank on it. The plants will continue to generate new beans after they are harvested. We usually get 3 or 4 pickings in a season.
Toss the beans in a plastic bucket as they are harvested. Store unwashed until ready for use. Remember, the best tasting beans are immature ones; that is they do not have full seeds in them. The longer they linger on the plant, the tougher they become.
Problems
Bean mosaic disease turns leaves yellow and reduces yield.
Bacterial bean blight causes bright yellow or brown spots on the leaves. Avoid contact with wet plants and use disease-free seeds.
Storage
Beans can be stored, unwashed, for up to 3 days in a plastic bag in the vegetable crisper part of the refrigerator. The bag prevents moisture loss and wilting. Green beans are excellent candidates for canning. We have canned them nearly every year. Beans dated 2004 are still being used in our soups or casseroles. Before freezing, the beans need to be blanched.
Doug
Growing Broccoli in the Midwest
Monday, May 19th, 2008
Enjoy easy to grow broccoli in your garden.
Summary
- Planting method: Transplant 4-6 weeks before last spring frost date; for fall crop, transplant in late summer.
- Spacing: 12-24 inches in rows 24 inches apart; 1 per square foot for intensive beds
- Days to harvest: 55-65
- High in vitamin C and beta carotene
Varieties
Many varieties do well in the home garden. Try two each year. Choose the one you like better and grow it again the following year with yet another variety. Keep doing this each year. This is a simple way to find out which variety does best in your garden.
- Cruiser (58 days to harvest; uniform, high yield; tolerant of dry conditions)
- Green Comet (55 days; early; heat tolerant)
- Green Goliath (60 days; spring, summer or fall; tolerant of extremes)
Planting
Get broccoli into the garden as early as possible. Start your own seeds 4 to 6 weeks ahead of the frost-free date in your area orr buy transplants from a reliable garden center. Look for compact, stocky plants.
Broccoli plants grow upright, often reaching a height of 2 1/2 feet. Space plants one foot apart in all directions in beds.
Transplants are recommended though you can start from seed. Set seedlings outdoors as soon as you can work the soil. If frost threatens, protect the seedlings with cloches. To prevent cutworm damage, place a two-inch collar of stiff paper around the stem of each plant before planting. At least 1 inch of the collar should extend below the soil line, with 2 inches above. Space rows about 2 feet apart, with at least 20 inches of space between the plants.
Maintenance
Use starter fertilizer for transplants and side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer (10-10-10) when the plants are half grown.
Broccoli likes a lot of water. Use a thick mulch around each plant to keep soil moist. Weed regularly.
Broccoli has two mortal enemies: rabbits and cabbageworms. Protect the plants with a fence or small, individual wire cages. I use cut-up 1 gallon milk jugs. Because rabbits stop feeding on broccoli when it gets big, remove the cages when the plants get large. To combat worms, spray broccoli plants at weekly intervals with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a biological control that kills worms but is totally safe to animals and humans. Organic gardeners accept its use.
Harvest
Pick the green flower buds before they start to spread into little yellow flowers. The buds should be firm and tight, just as they are in the grocery store, and 4 to 6 inches in diameter. Cut the bud with a sharp knife five inches down the stalk.
Heads that start to flower are past their prime, although the flowers are decorative and edible. A number of smaller buds will form below the central bud after you pick it. Harvest these in the same way as the original, larger bud. Keep harvesting to force continued production.
Storage
Store the broccoli, *unwashed*, in loose or perforated plastic bags in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator up to 5 days. Broccoli left unrefrigerated quickly becomes fibrous and woody. Wet broccoli quickly becomes limp and moldy in the refrigerator. Old broccoli may look fine, but it develops strong undesirable flavors. It tastes best and is highest in nutritional value when storage time is brief.
Troubleshooting
Nipped leaves – rabbits
Holes in leaves – diamondback worms
Yellow flowers – Heads ready to flower. Planting too late in the spring or failing to give the plants a good start contributes to this condition. Premature flower development also may be caused by interrupted growth resulting from extended chilling of young plants, extremely early planting, holding plants in a garden center until they are too old or too dry, and severe drought conditions.
Small heads – They form soon after plants are set in the garden (called “buttons”) and usually result from seedlings being held too long or improperly before sale or planting.
Recipes
Try this stir-fried steam broccoli recipe. I make this ad infinitum when broccoli is in season. Also frozen broccoli works well, too, in the off-season.
Growing Potatoes in the Midwest
Tuesday, June 5th, 2007Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) have been easy to grow in the Midwest. My favorite is Yukon Gold which I have a lot planted this year (2007). Others we have grown successfully in the past are Red Pontiac and the white Kennebec.
Potato Location
Do not grow potatoes in the same location until 3 years have passed. Disease and bugs persist and need this long to die off.
Temperature
Potatoes are a cool season vegetable. They grow best in soil that is between 60 and 70 degrees. They will not form when the soil is 80 degrees or higher.
Varieties
There are literally over a hundred varieties of potatoes in a multitude of colors. As mentioned before we have had very good luck with Yukon Gold, Kennebec, and Red Pontiac. Another variety I have seen at the stores is Viking which is a red skinned potato. Do not use potatoes from grocery stores; besides not being a seed potato, generally they have been sprayed with a chemical that prevents them from sprouting. Potatoes mature from 100 to 120 days after planting.
Planting
Potatoes are among the first crops planted in the Spring. I usually plant them around Good Friday or when the soil is workable. Planting too early may result in rot if the ground stays wet. Cut the seed potatoes in quarters and make sure there is at least one eye in the quarter. Once cut let them sit for a day or two so a crust develops over the cut part. This reduces the chance of rotting.
Plant potatoes with the cut side down. Full sun is the best for potatoes.
Spacing
I have always used seed potatoes rather than ones left over from the year before (though many farmers practice this). The seed potato is cut up in pieces where each piece has at least one “eye”. Each piece is planted about a 9 inches apart in a trench about 3 inches deep. I use a hand plow to dig the trench. Each row is 2 feet apart. Placing straw about 4 inches thick or mulch in between the rows help keep moisture in and lower the ground temperature by 10 degrees.
Watering
Yukon Gold have low drought tolerance so keep an eye on them. The soil should be well-drained and fertile. Compacted soil or clay soil will produce misshapen tubers. Keep the potatoes evenly watered so they do not get knobs (secondary growth). Water early in the day and try not to water the foliage.
Fertilizer
The soil should be well-drained and fertile. After the plant has grown several inches mound soil around the plant so the potatoes do not turn green from sunlight. After the plant is about a foot high I side-dress the potatoes with 10-10-10 fertilizer about 6 inches from the plant lightly scratched into the ground.
Harvesting
Normally potatoes are harvested after the vines die but if you want new potatoes (small, 1 to 2 inches in diameter) harvest them in mid July. Since potatoes are about 8 inches underground I use a potato fork. Normal yield is about 8 potatoes per vine.
Late potatoes are harvested around August or early September.
Storage
Most potatoes can be stored in a cool (40 to 50 degrees), dark place (not the refrigerator since the starches will be converted to sugars and give the potato an oddly sweet taste.) for several weeks. Yukon Gold do not store as well as others. If parts of the potato turn green just remove the green part and eat away. Potatoes do not freeze or can well.
Recipes
Here are some excellent ways of serving potatoes. They go over big every time.
Garlic Red Potatoes
Herb-Roasted Potatoes
doug
Growing Onions in Central Illinois
Saturday, March 17th, 2007
single yellow onion
I have had very good luck growing onions – and am I glad! My favorite are red onions – they are so much better than yellow or white onions on most everything. Unfortunately they do not last as long as yellow ones which is not a problem because they get used so quickly. Another plus is I can grow green onions; which I love. Check out some good recipes at dougthecook.com. Make sure the onions bought are long-day onions; short-day onions are for the South and do not grow well in the Midwest.
Planting
My onions are planted in the spring from sets as that is the easiest way. If the onion is larger than a dime, use those for green onions. Remember to plant them with the roots down (one year I planted several with the roots up – they were about one half the size of the ones planted with roots down). Good Friday is when I plant the cool weather crops: onions, potatoes, spinach, lettuce, and radishes. You could plant the last week of March but Cletus insists on Good Friday. The onions should be planted 1 inch deep. If you are growing green onions, plant them 2 inches apart from the dry onions and put them every other onion. They will be pulled before crowding becomes an issue. If no green onions, put them 3 inches apart. Put the rows about 1 foot apart. Do not hill onions or else they may rot at the base.
Care
Onions have shallow roots and are easily taken over by weeds. Boy, do I know about that! Late in the season the onions are almost indistinguishable from weeds unless you are ruthless at keeping them weeded. Foxtails are especially prevalent near harvest time. Many farmers do not bother weeding them – too much work…and I agree – it is a lot of work keeping them weeded.
I side dress onions with 10-10-10 fertilizer about half way through the season. Onions are watered once a week, depending on the rain, so they get 1 inch total.
Harvest
Yank the green onions when they are about 6 to 10 inches long – they should be crisp. If any have stalked, use them immediately as they are not very good if they sit out. Harvest dry onions in late July or early August when most of the tops fall over. I use a potato fork to harvest them. Trying to pull them out resulted in too many broken tops. Allow them to fall over naturally; that way they produce the biggest bulb. Scallions have no bulb while green onions have a 1 to 2 inch bulb.
Storage
Try and use green onions and scallions soon after they are harvested. Store in a perforated bag in a refrigerator up to 1 week after harvest.
Post Harvest
After harvesting the onions in the morning, let them sit in the shade for the rest of the day; unless it is raining. Put them on screens or hang them for 2 or 3 weeks. They need full air circulation in a fairly low humidity place. Many farmers put their onions in the attic where it is nice and dry. After the bulbs have dried cut their tops off 1 or 2 inches from the bulb. Discard any bulbs that have green growing from them. Store in a cool, dry place. They should last until late winter. Ideally storage temperature is 33 to 39 degrees. 40 and over they start to sprout. Some farmers put their onions in burlap sacks to store them.
Doug
Growing Spinach
Thursday, February 22nd, 2007
spinach plant
We have had very good luck with spinach. In fact last year we couldn’t give it away fast enough – and just from one packet of seeds.
The seeds are sown when the soil is ready for planting in the spring (4 weeks before last frost – middle of March where we live). Seeds can be sewn in late winter over frozen ground and they will germinate in the spring but we do not prep the soil until spring – disc then rototill it.
Spinach likes well-drained soil, ample moisture, and full sun. The seeds germinate in soil as cold as 50 degrees F.
Planting
I take a 1×1 board and dig a furrow 1/2 inch deep with its edge. The seeds are dropped in 1 inch apart and covered with soil and watered. The plants are thinned to 3 inches apart when they are an inch tall. The rows are 1 foot apart and I plant a successive row 7 days apart.
Fertilizer
I generally sidedress spinach with 10-10-10 fertilizer when the plants are a few inches tall.
Harvesting
Spinach is best when harvested young. I snip or pinch the leaves off and bag them. The leaves need to be washed before eating because they collect grit during rain. Spinach is ready to harvest in about 40 to 50 days depending on the variety. When the seedstalk forms, in late spring, harvest the remaining crop as the plant deteriorates quickly.
P.S. Rabbits like spinach.
Doug
Growing Radishes
Tuesday, February 13th, 2007
I love radishes on salads! Which is why I cannot wait to plant them.
Introduction
Radishes are a cool weather plant that grows quickly (about 22 days) from seed. They have been very successful in the past several years. Usually I plant about twenty radish plants then in seven days I will plant another batch and so on so there is a continuous supply.
Usually I will mix in a handful of 10-10-10 fertilizer before planting. My favorite spring radish is the Cherry Belle which does not get very hot (unless they are picked too late).
Planting
Radishes need loose, well-drained soil for root expansion. They love full sun.
To save space plant radishes between late growing plants such as broccoli or plant in an area that will be used for warm weather crops such as peppers or tomatoes. Plant in the early spring when the soil can be worked.
Sow the seeds (they are small) 1/4 inch deep and 1 1/2 inches apart.
Radishes get hot if they are left in the ground too long. Hotness is no relation to their size.
Harvest
Cherry Belle are about 1 inch in diameter when fully matured. Harvest them while they are young, before they turn pithy (spongy) or woody.
Storing
Store radishes in water in the refrigerator. I cut off the root and leaves before storing. Because of their high water content radishes do not freeze well.
Doug
